If I Ever Get to Isle Royale Again...

I may never get back to Isle Royale National Park again.  It took me over 40 years to get back after my first visit, it is hard to get to, and there are many other places to see and trails to hike.  But if I am ever fortunate enough to get back to this amazing place, what would I do differently?

Planning - I'd probably plan at least one extra day if I were traveling by air.  I missed my flight home when the ferry couldn't make the run out to get us because of a gale.  I'd also throw a little extra food - Kind bars, trail mix, dried fruit - into the kit in case I got delayed on island.  But I'd only need to do that if I were going in late September or October when they close the stores.  In the main season, if you end up at Windigo or Rock Harbor for the ferry, there will be stores that are open.

Camping - I'd be less concerned with getting a shelter.  I'd probably take my two man tent to have a little room.  I'd make sure to camp at least one night at Moskey Basin, and there, I would shoot for one of the shelters.  I might also try to get to Lane Cove, which was on the list but didn't work out.

Food storage - Would I bring my bear canister again?  I am not sure.  The park service recommends them.  The squirrels are aggressive but we never saw a fox in camp.  Hanging one's food is out - it's like a red squirrel dinner invitation.  In the shelters, the food seems safe.  In a tent, I am not so sure, as both squirrels and mice can chew through a tent.  None of my companions had a single problem but we mostly stayed in shelters.

Night Sky - I'd probably pick a clear night and stay up really late at least once looking at the stars.  If I were really lucky and had the open view to the north, maybe seeing the Northern Lights could happen.

Route - I'd camp on some of the inland lakes, and I would spend more time on the Greenstone Ridge Trail.  If possible, I'd catch the boat to Hidden Lake and see that and Lookout Louise, and hike back to Rock Harbor.  I'd also look into a route that would get me to Windigo, and catch the Voyageur back to Rock Harbor.

Time of Year - I'd give up on seeing the fall foliage.  I think to do that, you have to go at the very end of the season, using the ferry from Minnesota.  I might consider August because the ferry from Copper Harbor runs every day.  I'd probably avoid June because the black flies must be horrendous up here.  May would be cold and wet but the wildlife sightings could be amazing.

Family - I'd love to bring my granddaughter and her mother here.  If so, I'd probably do a 3-4 night trip, with one or two days at a remote site and the rest at Rock Harbor.  Two days remote would give the ability to hike into an area, like Three Mile, with full packs and then spend a day relaxing and day hiking with light packs.  I'd probably only bring food for the overnight part, and buy food for the meals in Rock Harbor at the camp store.

Isle Royale is an amazing and magical place.  If you love nature, hiking, and the outdoors, I suggest that you find a way to get there.  If you hate camping or backpacking, go at a time when the lodge is open and stay there.

Leaving Isle Royale

On the 22nd, we arose and got the news that the ferry from Copper Harbor was coming over to drop off passengers, and would immediately load up and go back.  Normally, it stays on island about 3 hours.  Everyone needed to be ready by 11:00 for an expected 11:30 arrival.  So we all packed up after breakfast.  I bought a clean shirt at the store, which was open once again.  At least I would have one clean thing to wear back after wearing the same shirt and trousers for eight straight days.

We try to keep a clean camp, but inevitably, small pieces of food find the ground, and when they do, the clean up crew is always alert.  The Isle Royale red squirrel is actually a separate sub-species.  It is less red and smaller than its mainland cousins.  I wonder how this little species of squirrel got all the way out here?  Must have floated on something to colonize the island.

Before the ship came, we got some photos taken at the welcome display.

Right on schedule, the ferry arrived.  I think that everyone was happy to see it.  Weather would be worsening again late in the afternoon, so they wanted to make the trip back while seas were 3-5 feet rather than 8 feet later.

The ride back took 4 hours and was plenty rough enough.  We all took anti-seasickness medication.  No one attempted to go out on the bow - it was too rough.  This shot is off the stern, Isle Royale fading in the distance.

Back in Copper Harbor, we all enjoyed showers - my, did that feel good - and had dinner together.  Then Rick told me that someone had told him about a laundromat about a half mile or so down the street, which we found.  Once we found it, we walked back, got our filthy clothing, and returned to it.  If we had been flying out Sunday, I might not have bothered.  Most of my hiking clothing should not be machine dried, so I hung them to dry overnight back in the chalet.

Sunday morning, after a great breakfast of pancakes at the Pines Restaurant, I went to mass at Our Lady of the Pines. It is a lovely log church.

We'd all hoped to go for a hike on the trails around town, but it was a drizzly day, so a few of us went to a micro brew - check out the flight board in the shape of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.

This friendly guy came over to say hello in the bar.

The weather continued to be poor for the day, so we all just kind of holed up and watched football and other TV shows, took a walk around town for some ice cream, went out for pizza, and then retired to our various lodgings.  The next morning, after breakfast, we battled Copper Harbor's brutal Monday morning rush hour.  I also visited the little town museum again.

After our shuttle to the airport by noon, we spent the next 12 hours getting back to Richmond.  Ironically, the Sunday flight out of Houghton had been cancelled due to weather, so if we had managed to get on it, we would not be leaving until Tuesday at the earliest, as Monday's flight was 100% booked.  Also ironically, the Monday ferry to Isle Royale was cancelled due to lake conditions.  After not even being late all summer, the Isle Royale Queen had to cancel two voyages in a row.

I had a great trip to a wonderful national park, but was so happy to get home about 12:30 AM Tuesday.

Prior story - bonus day on Isle Royale
Next story - If I ever get back....

Our Unexpected Isle Royale Bonus Day

I think every one of us, even having had a great time all week in Isle Royale National Park, were ready to hop on the ferry and start the long process of getting home.  If all went as planned we would be back in Richmond about 9:30 Saturday night.  So when Friday the 21st dawned and the worst of the rain had gone by, we went down to the park office to see if there were any news.  And there was - with gale force winds continuing with 12 foot seas in Lake Superior, the IR Queen IV was cancelled until about noon Saturday.  Bummer!  One day delay on showers, clean clothing, and a cold beer!  Plus, we would miss our flights Saturday.  As it turned out, the ranger kindly let us all use the phone to contact United and get rescheduled for Monday (Sunday was booked).  But we would have to go through Chicago and Dulles, adding 2 hours to the trip.  Next thing - we had to get a place to stay for two more nights in Copper Harbor, while forfeiting what we paid for tonight.  As it turned out, between my inReach and the ranger's email account, we got the same place reserved for Saturday and Sunday nights.

So, here we are - on Isle Royale another day.  What to do?  Well, some of us took a walk along the harbor.  We enjoyed the calls and sight of this common loon, one of my favorite birds.

We felt bad for this little warbler, which appears to have been blown in by the storm and seemed exhausted and hungry.

Next up, how about a hike?  Some of us hiked a bit back up the Tobin Harbor Trail for perhaps a mile.  I kept going another mile to Suzy's Cave.  On the way, we saw this pretty sailboat.  It would later show up in Rock Harbor, and, about sunset, it would start sailing towards Copper Harbor, 55 miles away, using a short period of predicted decent weather.

Have I said how much I love white birch?  Yes?  Well, I really do.

This is the thimbleberry, which produces delicious fruits.  They are found on Isle Royale, and then not until the Rockies.  Figure that one out!

Last night's storm snapped several trees across the trail as easily as I could snap a match stick.  We had to crawl under them.

After about two miles, I reached Suzy's cave on a high point with water views close by.

Coming back down to the Tobin Harbor Trail, I liked these little white mushrooms.

And this handsome red-headed merganser couple caught my eye.

So did this little red squirrel on a birch log.

Back at camp, I checked in with some of my companions.  It was a chilly day, and I think a lot of people were fine just hunkering down for the day, even though it didn't rain much today.

It wasn't just humans in camp.  The Canada jays were always on patrol for a handout,

and we kept seeing this varying (snowshoe) hare at different points.  They are fairly large, maybe twice the size of the cottontails that we have in Virginia.

Our last night on Isle Royale, the Heavens treated us to beautiful skies.  I stayed until fairly late watching the sun set and enjoying the nearly full moon, and when I got back, I think that everyone was in bed.  I read for a while, then turned out the headlamp and tried to get some sleep, listening to the loons calling one last night in this magical place.

Prior story - hiking back to Rock Harbor
Next story - back to civilization

Isle Royale - Getting Back to Rock Harbor

We were on the trail Thursday (September 20) by 8:30.  Our goal was to hike the 7+ miles back to Rock Harbor by noon, before the storm came in, and get a shelter for the six of us.  We figured that few people would be in Rock Harbor on a Thursday.  Here was the track, starting at the red arrow and ending up at the purple arrow.  When we got to Three Mile, we headed up the Mount Franklin Trail to the left and then turned right on the Tobin Harbor Trail, which was a very easy and smooth trail.  We'd taken the Rock Harbor Trail outbound the Saturday before, and it was rocky and more difficult.  We wanted speed, plus we got to see new scenery by being on a different trail.

These trails that go through tall forests always remind me of a cathedral.

We didn't see much fall color, but these ferns were rather pretty, and

I also liked these mushrooms.

The hike along Tobin Harbor was very scenic.  It reminded me, again, of the Maine Coast, with its islands and and spruce and fir trees.

We got to Rock Harbor before 12:30, and were shocked that every shelter was already taken!  What the hell?  But one of them had one guy in it (Neil, who was a kayaker and turned out to be a great guy), and he said that some of our group were welcome to stay in his shelter.  Across from his shelter was one with just two people in it, so I asked if they could add two more.  They had moved the picnic table in there, which I don't think the park really wants, but they agreed.  They had their tent set up in the shelter, so Barbara and I decided to set up our little tents as well for some privacy.  It took some maneuvering and jury-rigging to make it all fit, but we did.

I walked to the park office, which was closed.  They had posted the weather report, along with a notice that the ferry might not be able to run Friday.  That determination would be made in the morning.  There was a gale warning for Thursday and Friday, and there would be very heavy rain coming in later.  I went back to the shelter, and was checking my food, when one of my mates came by with a big paper bag.  "What's that?" I asked.  "Food!" he said.  "They've opened the store."  Since I only had one dinner, one breakfast, and a power bar left, I was very interested in this unexpected windfall.  I ran down there and got two backpacking meals (in case we got stuck Friday and Saturday nights), some power bars, a box of raisins, candy bars, some cookies, and two ice cream bars (which I ate walking back to camp, one in each hand.)  I went back later and bought a couple of books from the park visitor center, which also opened for a little while because of the storm and probable delay.  It felt great to have more food, as well as something to read, if we got storm-bound.  What unexpected pleasures!

As the rain held off all afternoon, I took some short walks and admired the scenery around Rock Harbor.

I also saw some impressive waves crashing on the rocks at the edge of the harbor.  Shortly after dinner, the rain started and it increased.  I got into my tent, snug as a bug, read for a while, and finally turned my headlamp out.  I wondered if the ferry could run the next day, and finally stopped worrying about it.  What would be, would be.

Prior Story: Hike Back to Daisy Farm
Next Story: An Extra Day on the Island

Isle Royale - Heading Back to Daisy Farm

Wednesday, September 19 dawned, and we got up early, probably making too much noise for the other two parties camped there.  When we left, I apologized to one of them, and he just said "What can you do?  Crazy kids!"  We were heading to Moskey Basin for the night, at least that was the plan.  We ended up not camping at this amazingly beautiful spot, the prettiest camping spot that we had been to.  I'll explain as I go along.

Here is our route back to Daisy Farm, starting at the red arrow and ending at the purple arrow.  Our planned camping area, Moskey Basin, is about at the halfway point.

Along the hike, I try to look out for interesting natural features, like these mushrooms growing on a a decaying log.

We saw these swans on a lake.  I think that they are mute swans, but without binoculars, it's hard to tell.

There are only two wolves left on the island (at that time - I think that there are six as of this writing.). We didn't see a wolf, but we heard them howling, and I am pretty sure that this is wolf scat. I showed the photo to Rolfe Peterson that night, and he thought it was promising enough that he thought he would hike six miles each way to collect it the next morning.

When you see people in a canoe gliding along, it looks so much easier than carrying all one's gear.  Yet here is the other side of it - if you want to hit some of the inland lakes on Isle Royale, you have to portage your boat and gear.  I snapped this photo of a large pile of gear, and trust me, it is heavy.

Just before we reached Moskey Basin, we had to cross through a swamp.  We could hear a moose splashing around in the swamp, and caught the briefest of glimpses, but mostly he or she stayed out of sight.  The moose is the largest deer in the world, and can weigh over 1,000 pounds, but when they don't want to be seen, they might as well be about the size of a chipmunk.

We got to Moskey Basin before noon, and it was incredibly beautiful.  No one was currently camped there and we had our pick.  This is the view of the basin from shelter #7.

And here is the view back to the shelter from that spot on the lake.  What a gorgeous place!

It was time for a group discussion and decision.  I paid for a detailed weather check using my inReach, and it didn't sound good.  We already knew from the discussion with the ranger yesterday that a big gale would be moving into Lake Superior the following (Thursday) afternoon.  The inReach forecast foretold of heavy rain and high winds starting about 1:00PM Thursday and continuing - and worsening - all night, with a 40% chance for rain Friday morning.  For the first time, we wondered if the ferry could run Friday.  We really had two choices.  The first was to camp here as planned, and get an early start for Three Mile Campground Thursday morning, trying to get there and get a shelter before the 1PM rain.  Then, hike about 3.5 miles back to Rock Harbor Friday morning in time to hopefully catch the 2:45 ferry back to Copper Harbor.  The other choice was to hike on to Daisy Farm for the night, and hope to get a shelter.  Then, hike 7+ miles Thursday to Rock Harbor, try to get there before the rain, and hopefully get there in time to snag a shelter to wait out the coming storm.  Camp there for the night, and hang around Friday until the ferry leaves - if it is even running that day.

Moskey Basin is incredibly beautiful.  It was the prettiest spot so far, and shelters seven and eight were at the very end of the trail, and had magnificent locations.  I favored option 1, but told the group that we would go with the majority rules.  If we were tied 3 to 3, I'd break the tie as group leader.  We had a clear majority to hike out to Daisy Farm and try to get to Rock Harbor in time to get a shelter before the gale.  And that is what we did.  I did resolve to camp here if I ever am lucky enough to return.

The hike back was, as every place we hiked here, beautiful and interesting.  Here is evidence of the large pileated woodpeckers, which we saw several times during the week.

Here is an inland bog.  It looks like a field, but I bet you would get plenty wet trying to cross it.

In this photo, the group hikes along the trail in a high, rocky spot.  Somewhere along the trail, I saw a beautiful red fox, and one of the women saw a marten.  Both of these small mammals were too quick for a photo.

Unlike last Saturday, Daisy Farm was fairly crowded.  Two of us shared a shelter with a solo hiker who had been dropped off that day by the Voyageur, the ferry out of Minnesota.  The other four snagged their own shelter.  The rules are more or less, if you are a group of 1 or 2, or even 3, you cannot have your own shelter if others need it, especially if the weather was bad.  It was kind of funny, though.  We had this big shelter for just three people.  When we hit the sack, we had about 4-5 feet between us, but when I woke up in the middle of the night, the guy in the middle was practically on top of me!  He must roll around a lot at night, eh?

Since it was Wednesday night back in Daisy Farm, the Petersons gave their talk again.  I enjoyed hearing them again, and showed Rolfe some photos from the trail.  Rick showed Candy his moose picture, and she said that it was a nice looking bull, and that his black nose was a sign of high testosterone.

She didn't have a wolf skull, but she had a cast of one.  My, what big teeth you have, grandma!  This animal is perfectly adapted to chasing large prey, killing them, and eating them, crushing bones to get at the marrow.

We all said goodnight fairly early, and resolved to be on the trail early.  The goals for Thursday were to get to Rock Harbor early enough to (1) beat hiking in the heavy rain and (2) get a shelter for the six of us with the big storm coming in.

Prior story: Hanging out at Chippewa Harbor
Next story: Hiking back to Rock Harbor