Hiking and Birding at False Cape

It felt good to be back here at False Cape State Park.  I'd hiked in the day before (April 7) and slept well in my new tent - and had pancakes for breakfast!  Now, it was time to go for a day hike and look for birds.  My friend Carlton and I both like to watch birds, although he is better at identification than I am - so I try to learn from him.  We ended up recording something like 50 species that Saturday.

Our route was south towards North Carolina, and then a "box" shape out to the beach and back around, a total of about 11 miles.  The purple arrow shows the location of the beautiful South Inlet.  There is an observation platform there, and we saw a couple of bald eagles and a northern harrier (marsh hawk) while we were there.

Here is Carlton snapping a photo of the harrier:

As we hiked along, we watched and listened constantly.  Birds were out all over the place.  One of the prettiest was this prairie warbler, which was in the live oaks over our tents, keeping us entertained with his merry song (photo by Carlton):

The route we hiked went through maritime forests, dunes, and the beach itself:

After hiking, we stopped at the little store at the park and bought ice cream and Gator Aid.  Ice cream while backpacking is an amazing luxury, and hit the spot.  Then, I took a little snooze back at the tent to rejuvenate myself for more hiking in the evening.

After my delicious - not kidding here, it really was - dinner of lentils, rice, and Indian spice,

we decided to go out again and see what birds we could see and hear.  We ended up hiking another 3.5 miles, and saw and heard plenty.  The coolest sight was a pair of red-tailed hawks sharing an unfortunate creature as a meal, and a flock of about 30 glossy ibis flying in for the night.  The moon was nearly full,

and the fading light of the day illuminated the marshes as we walked along:

As the light faded entirely, we began to hear the sounds of the night - a pair of great horned owls at first.  We headed that way, and suddenly, we heard the faint cry of a whip-poor-will and then of a chuck-will's-widow.  We walked along a path in the woods until we could hear the chuck-will's-widow better.  The moon was so bright that we didn't need headlights at all.  Suddenly, a large group of coyotes started howling and making a loud ruckus.  We hiked back to camp, as a screech owl joined into the chorus.  At camp, I fell asleep listening to the whip-poor-will call.  I'd not heard one, or a chuck-will's-widow, in over a decade, so it was a thrill.  In the middle of the night, I awoke to coyotes howling again, and at the dawn, I awoke to the call of a whip-poor-will.  It was wonderful.

Carlton packed up and was on the trail by 7:00 Sunday morning, but I took my time, enjoyed breakfast, and got hiking about 9:00.  I would have liked to go to church on this Palm Sunday, but decided that I was in God's Cathedral all weekend.  It was an uneventful hike out, although I did get close to a turkey vulture, and got to see turtles sunning themselves on the warmest day of the three by far.

I had a great time camping out, hiking, and exploring for wildlife.  I hope to get back here again in the fall or next spring.

Seven Minus Six Plus One Equals Two

A couple of months ago, I organized a backpacking trip to False Cape State Park, down in Southeast Virginia on the North Carolina border.  I immediately got six people to sign up, and was very happy about that.  Then two dropped out, then two more.  Seven had become just three. I collected the money from the couple that remained, reserved the site, and contacted them on Monday before the trip to set up final arrangements.  "Sorry, hiked 40 miles this weekend doing the AT through Maryland," she said.  "Ankle is swollen, Achilles tendon is sore.  Have to drop out!"

So, down to just me.  But I contacted a friend, and he was able to join me - even though he nearly had to drop at the last minute when his boss wouldn't give him that Friday off.  They compromised, he left work a couple hours early, and hiked into the campsite just at dark.  This was Friday, April 7.  I'd started hiking about 12:30 and even though it was incredibly windy, had enjoyed the hike in, set up my new tent, done some bird watching, and had eaten dinner by the time Carlton got there.

Here is where we were,  The top part, above the red line, is the hike in Friday and out Sunday.  Below the red line is where we hiked Saturday.  The state line is indicated by the dashed line (and arrow). The park is part of a narrow barrier beach with the Atlantic Ocean to the East and Back Bay to the West.  It's a wonderful place to hike and camp.

The hike in through Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge is always interesting.  Due to the cold and windy conditions Friday, I didn't see any snakes or turtles, but did see a number of birds, starting with these American coots:

Most of the hike in is through open marshes, but eventually, you reach a pleasant maritime forest to hike though with pines and live oaks.

When you get to the park, it is maybe another mile and a quarter to the campsite.  We camped near the ocean.

I loved these red maple seeds on the way to camp.

After setting up my tent, I went down to the beach.  About five miles down the beach is North Carolina, with its "McMansions."  I am glad that Virginia protected our beaches here from that kind of development.

Because it was a nice level hike in, and I was camping from a base camp, I carried in a little extra gear, including a small fry pan to make pancakes for breakfast.  And of course, what are pancakes without maple syrup? So I packed in a little of that as well.  It hit the spot!

Next post: Saturday's 14 miles of day hiking and bird watching (and listening).

Harrington Beach in Eastern Maine

After our visit last Tuesday to Quoddy Head State Park, our nephew and niece-in-law suggested a short hike in to Harrington Beach, which was close by.  Here are a few photos - great place to be gained for an easy hike of just a few hundred meters.

Beach plums at the start of the hike.

Definitely not in Kansas anymore, Toto!

Here is a panoramic view of Harrington Beach

No sand here!  Maine has something like 3,000 miles of coastline and only something like 30 miles of it is sandy beaches.

Can you tell that there is a huge tidal range there, something like 24 feet?  That pales in comparison with the Bay of Fundy if you keep heading northeast.

No, this is not Harrington Beach, but it is a quintessential Maine coastal view in nearby Lubec.  The bridge to Campobello Island in Canada (FDR's summer place - well worth a visit) is very close by.

Higbee Beach WMA

I've been too busy lately with my Team in Training event, the Crawlin' Crab Half Marathon to complete my descriptions of my three Cape May, New Jersey hikes.  But I am finally catching up here, with a short account of my hike at Higbee Beach Wildlife Management Area on September 28.

Yes, there really is a beach there, on Delaware Bay.

The trails there are not well marked and often barely distinctive from game trails.  This one is typical, and some were much less distinct than this one was.  My brother-in-law was hiking with me, and I think he got a little nervous at times.  And I saw stars when I ducked to go under a fallen tree, but didn't duck far enough!  But we were never in danger of getting lost.

We ran into two young women with a dog and four very little kids, and they told us roughly how to find a lake.  With that information and my GPS, we headed towards the lake and found is, with high sand dunes all around like this.

It was a really pretty little lake, a gem so near a city.  I wonder how many people vacation in this area and have any idea that such a pretty little lake exists so close by?

 Panoramic view of the lake....

I had really hoped to see migratory birds and other wildlife here, but it was the middle of the afternoon, and other than an egret, there was no other wildlife visible.  We did see this cactus with fruits, which was pretty neat.  And we had another nice walk, maybe about 2.5 miles, in extreme southern New Jersey.

My Shackleford Bank Trip's Posts

It took me a while to get them all written, but here is a summary of my posts for my two night backpacking trip last month on Shackleford Banks, a nine mile long uninhabited barrier island off the southern North Carolina coast:

An overview of my trip can be read here.  I hoped for scenic beaches, low crowds, great shells, and cool wildlife, and Shackleford Banks sure delivered!

After a few weeks eagerly anticipating the trip, the day arrived and the three of us headed out to the island on a water taxi out of Beaufort.

On my first day there, we focused on hiking to a nice spot to camp (where we could drop off our water).  Then, I did some beachcombing and exploring.

All of us hoped that we would see the famous wild horses, known as "bankers," and we were not disappointed.

Day two on the island started off right with a nice sunrise.

My second full day on the island involved walking - lots and lots of walking!

After a threatening storm somehow missed us, we went out looking for wild horses again, and got another good look at these tough animals.  Plus, I saw an interesting sunset.

Ending a trip can be bittersweet, but while we had a great time, all of us were glad to get back to civilization - and especially, to shade!  First, we had to hike back out as the tide rushed in.

And now, for some mystery guests!  Can you guess these animals I saw?

This one is beautiful, but deadly!

This one flits like a ghost along the coast!

This one is a drab looking shorebird - until it flies, and then it is quite distinctive!

This one has more arms than you or I do.

What Am I?

Here is the fourth "What Am I?" riddle from my backpacking trip on Shackleford Banks....

I live out on the ocean's floor

But you might find me on the shore

I have five arms, while you have two

Mine are different from those of you

My arms are covered with tube feet

By which I move, and help me eat,

Because my tube feet do real well

When pulling open a clam's shell

My phylum name means "spiny skin"

Sea urchins are among my kin

For yes, I will with pride confirm

Indeed, I'm an echinoderm!

I think

that should

be enough

clues for you.

Take your

guess and

scroll

D

O

W

N

for the answer!

Did you finish ahead of par

And guess I'm a fine sea star?

I saw a number of these sea stars (commonly called star fish, although a fish they are not) washed up on the beach and thought they were really striking.  I shared a few photos of my hike with a coworker, and she liked this one so much she is using it as wallpaper on her computer.  Mother Nature arranged everything so artfully, don't you think?

What Am I?

Here is the third "What Am I?" riddle from my backpacking trip on Shackleford Banks....

Patrolling by the water's edge

In tireless search of food, I pledge

I probe the sand with my long bill
For food my belly with to fill

My feet move fast, can you keep up
While I search for some things to sup?

A sanderling, do you suppose?
No - let's continue with more prose.

For I'm much larger than that bird
You'll have to take me at my word

I'm drab in color but in my flight
I boldly flash both black and white

From market hunting I was rare
But I've come back thanks to man's care

That should
be enough clues
to identify
this common
shorebird.

Do you know it?
Scroll
D
O
W
N
and see if you
got it right!

Did these clues all help you fill it
and determine I'm a willet?

I saw a number of these impressive shorebirds while hiking on Shackleford Banks last month.  The Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918 helped their populations, decimated from market hunting, recover, and they are now commonly seen along the coast.

What Am I?

Here is the second "What Am I?" riddle from my backpacking trip on Shackleford Banks....

You ever think you've seen a ghost
While walking on the sandy coast?

While not a ghost, my color's pale
I have a shell, but not like snail

I've eight fast legs to move around
But spend much time below the ground

For in the sand I dig a hole
I won't come out, though you cajole

But in the darkness of the night
When the conditions are just right

I'll leave the safety of my lair
And hunt for something to ensnare

By heading down to the dark sea
To search for food.  No guarantee

I won't become someone's quick meal
And if I do, there's no appeal

Perhaps you think I'm large spider
Think again, think hard and wider

Now this last clue should give you pause
I'm armed with two strong pinching claws

Think hard,
enough clues
and I think
you have more
than a ghost of
a chance with
this one.
Scroll
D
O
W
N
for the
answer.


Should you say that I'm a ghost crab
Then the answer you sure did grab!

One sees these crabs often during the day, usually very close to the borrows.  But come out at night, and you will see them all over the place, heading down to the water to hunt, and I suppose, to breed.  I once saw a big one with a much smaller one in its claws.  Life is not easy or gentle for these animals.

What Am I?

It's been four weeks since I was backpacking on Shackleford Banks, and it is past time to document some of the other wildlife that I saw on the two days I was on the island.  I plan on three or four of these posts to wrap up my Shackleford Banks experience.  Here is the first one.  See if you can figure it out.  I saw about 5-6 of these dead on the beach.  I saw a live one once in Bermuda.  It an animal you want to stay away from, despite its beauty.

Beyond the waves I gently float
Perhaps I look like tiny boat

My body's purple with some pink
I look so lovely, you may think

But you should take another look
By cover, do not judge this book!

There's more to me than purplish float
And if you're wise, you will take note

Don't get too close, for here's the thing:
I will inflict a deadly sting!

Far below the water's surface
Are tentacles with deadly purpose

I hope that
this gives you
enough clues.

Scroll
D
O
W
N
for the
answer.

Here, then, I am, washed up on shore:
Deadly Portuguese man 'o war!

Here are two of the specimens that I found.  The colors are beautiful, but even lying on the beach, their long tentacles can pack a deadly sting.

If I recall correctly, this species is not a single animal, but more like a colony of animals.  Finding so many of these washed up would make me very alert upon swimming in this area!

Leaving Shackleford Banks

Catching up here...
Monday, June 10
After being thrilled to see Shackleford Banks' wild horses yet again, I went to bed about 8:30 Sunday night.  I was really tired, but had a hard time getting to sleep, as the wind kept buffeting my little tent.  But eventually, I did sleep pretty well, and woke up in time to see one more sunrise over the dunes.

I walked for a while on the beach, seeing if I could find more shells, and just enjoying the nice morning.  A flock of pelicans coasted effortlessly above like a squadron of fighter planes:

I ran into Carl, who told me he had been up since 4AM, and that he was going to pack up early and hike back down the beach.  Even though our boat was not until 1:20, he remembered there being more shade at that end of the island.  And he desperately wanted some shade, having received a good burn from the sun's rays.  So after he and I ate breakfast - and I had a cup of hot tea - I took a walk on the beach again while he was packing up.  When I got back, Carl was gone and Hawkeye (Chris) was up and about, and announced that he was going to pack up, too.  Hawkeye, having started a partial through-hike, can pack in a jiffy, and he was gone while I was still packing up.  But in about 20 minutes, I was packed up and heading the three miles back to the western end of Shackleford Banks.  The tide was coming in, but for a while, I had plenty of beach to hike on.

Then, I started to run out of beach...

until, I totally ran out of beach to hike on - and the tide was not yet fully high!

At that point, I clambered over the low dunes and picked by way through the scrubby vegetation.  With only three pounds of water instead of the 28 I had started with, my pack was a lot lighter - although I did have at least a dozen pounds of shells.  Why, these are the ones that I picked up just for my granddaughter - the pocket knife is there so you can get an idea how big some of them are:

Suddenly, there were people coming the other way - a few at first, and then lots of them.  They were arrivals on the 9AM boat from Beaufort.  Then I spotted Hawkeye standing at the boat and waving to me, motioning me to come on.  So I did, and it turned out that he had spotted me hiking down the beach and persuaded the captain to wait a few minutes so we could get off the island at 9:20.  We had all had a great time, but were ready to get back to civilization.  I really appreciated her waiting the five extra minutes, and tipped her $10.  We got back to the car, changed our shirts and shoes, stowed our packs, and then, do you know what we did?  Why, we found an ice cream place, and at 10 in the morning, we each ate a bowl of ice cream while sitting in chairs - in the shade!

Shackleford Horses and Sunsets

Sunday June 9.
My second day on Shackleford Banks had been a long one.  My pedometer had over 40,000 steps on it by the time we ate our cold dinner on the beach.  Chris and Carl were looking for more shells and I just sat down to get the load off my feet.  The rain had somehow missed us, but the wind was blowing strongly (and would most of the night).  It felt so good to sit down and not have the sun beating down from directly overhead.  When Chris and Carl returned, it was something like 7:00, and Chris suggested looking for horses again, and so we set off to the interior of the island.  Before long, Chris (who's trail name is "Hawkeye") thought he spotted a few in the distance.  All the little sandy hills make it difficult to see far, but we set out, and sure enough, there they were - six this time.  They were very tolerant of our presence, a couple of them walking within 20 feet of me.  Naturally, I didn't have my camera, having left it back at my tent.  We watched them for a good 20 minutes or so, then walked back to camp.  Even though it was still light, Carl and Chris went to bed.  We all were tired.

I sat there, aware of really tired legs.  I surely had over 20 miles on my feet that day.  And then I thought "When is the next time I will see wild horses?"  I grabbed my camera and headed back in the gathering dusk to find the little band of horses.  I took some photos and watched them for a while, then headed back to camp before it got too dark to see well.

Although the light looks good in the photos above, I think it was the camera compensating somehow, as it was quite dusky by now.  I sat on the beach and enjoyed an unusual sunset.  Because it was so cloudy, it was more shades of blues than last night's pinks and oranges.  It was really pretty, and I must have snapped 15 photos from different perspectives.  Here are a few of them.

It was dark now.  I sat alone on the beach and gazed at the Cape Lookout Lighthouse winking at me every 15 seconds from seven or eight miles away.  I reflected on the past two days and what a fun adventure they had been.  Even though it was just 8:30, I realized how tired I was.  My pedometer showed over 47,000 steps for the day.  I watched the lighthouse blink four more times, then went to bed. Tomorrow at some point - clean and dry clothes, and a hot shower!